The Zajednicar
December 17, 1997
CHRISTMAS IN CROATIA
Svim na zemlji mir, veselje...
Peace, joy to all on Earth...
(Traditional Croatian Christmas Carol)
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Traditional Meals
Christmas Eve:
cod fish- bianco and brudetto
* bakalar-bijeli i brudet
smelts and salted sardines
* girice i slane srdele
Christmas Dinner:
stuffed cabbage
*sarma
turkey with Zagorje noodles
*purica s mlincima
suckling pig
*odojak
Dalmatian pot roast
*pasticada
walnut roll
*orahnjaca
poppy seed roll
*makovnjaca
fritters
*fritule
assorted Croatian cookies dried figs with walnuts
*suhe smokve s orasima
grappa
*loza
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We have selected dishes for these meals from different regions of Croatia.
With this sampler, we hope to give you a taste of diverse culinary
traditions found across Croatia.
Celebrating Christmas has been a prominent festivity among Croats dating
back to the ninth century when Croats accepted Christianity. A noteworthy
document from 879 is a letter of Pope John VIII in which he recognized the
Croatian state under Croatian Prince Branimir. Traditionally a holiday when
families get together, for Croats Christmas is also the time to remember
the role the Catholic church has played in the development of the Croatian
national identity. Faith, along with culture, identity, language and
beliefs, preserved Croatian national identity during the centuries-long
strife when the nation was divided among and ruled by different peoples.
Crushing that faith as a means of conquest was a tactic different invaders
used over the centuries. The most recent attempt occured in 1991 in the
Homeland war, when the Yugoslav army and Serbian paramilitaries demolished
over 1200 churches across Croatia in an attempt to erase symbols of
Croatian identity and culture. Although valuable cultural heritage was
destroyed, they failed to subjugate the Croat nation. Instead, Croats
emerged as victors and succeeded in establishing a sovereign and
independent Croatia for the first time in a thousand years.
Due to different geographical and historical influences different Christmas
customs have developed over the centuries, such as variations in carols,
sayings, dishes, and decorations. Thus, when traveling through Croatia at
Christmas time you will hear different carols and be offered different
foods, but all Croats will wish you a Merry Christmas in the same way -
SRETAN BOZIC.
Traditional Christmas Foods
Much of the Christmas festivities are centered around the table and food.
As it is customary in Catholic countries, most Croats do not eat meat on
Christmas Eve; instead they eat fish.
Traditionally on the Dalmatian coast, this meal has consisted of dried
salted cod - bakalar.
For Christmas dinner, the main course can be roast suckling pig, turkey or
any other meat, depending on the region of Croatia. The central part of the
Christmas tradition, however, is the fresh Christmas Eve Bread, or Badnji
Kruh, made with honey, nuts and dried fruit. The Christmas Braid is another
Christmas bread. The dough, made with nutmeg, raisins and almonds, is
braided into a wreath and glazed. Many place wheat with candles in the
center of the bread and use it as centerpiece for Christmas dinner. It is
left on the table until the Epiphany (January 6), when it is cut and eaten.
On St. Lucy's Day (December 13), wheat grains are planted in a round dish
or plate and left to germinate. By Christmas Eve, the sprouted tender green
shoots about eight inches high are tied with a red, white and blue ribbon,
the Croatian trobojnica. A candle is usually placed in the center of the
wheat. In the Gorski Kotar region of Croatia, a small glass with water and
oil is placed in the center of the wheat, on which a floating wick ( a
dusica - from the word for soul, dusa) is placed. Its glow represents the
soul within each of us.
Decorating The Home
At Christmas, Croatian houses are decorated with greenery; ivy, holly,
branches of oak or maple, fir or evergreen trees. Preparations for
Christmas, including decorating the Christmas tree, begin on Christmas Eve,
called Badnjak. The word badnjak itself comes from the word for yule log,
whcih Croats bring in and lay on the hearth. Straw, upon which whishes are
made, is brought into the house, and candles are lit for the departed.
According to tradition, Croats spend Badnjak lighting the yule log.
Many families decorate Christmas trees with the Licitar hearts. This unique
Croatian decoration is made of edible materials, although it primarily
serves as decoration. The dough, mostly shaped in hearts, is colored red.
Colorful designs are added to it, including sayings and little mirrors. The
Licitar hearts originated in Sestine, near Zagreb where they continue to be
produced, although the tradition has spread across Croatia.
The Christmas table is also set on Badnjak. It is covered with one or
several ornamanted tablecloths, under which straw is laid. In the spot
where the straw is underneath the tablecloth, Christmas bread is positioned
on top of the cloth. Pastry plaits decorate the bread, dividing it into
four sections. Although the fruits and nuts, which are set on the table
vary in each region, they include walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, apples,
figs, and other dried fruits. Wine and brandy are set on the table as
complimentary drinks.
The Tradition Of Gift Giving
Although gifts are given on Christmas day, this is not the main gift-giving
day for Croats, who view Christmas day more as a holy day of spiritual
celebration. Children in Croatia receive gifts from saints, depending upon
where they live. In southern and northeastern Croatia, St. Lucy
traditionally brings gifts to children, while in northern and central
Croatia, St. Nicholas brings gifts. The celebration of St. Nicholas Day
(December 6) as the main gift-giving holiday of the Christmas season stems
from the European Catholic church. In North America and Western Europe, the
Evangelical church transferred this tradition into Santa Claus. Although
Croatia has also adopted the tradition of giving gifts on Christmas day,
these gifts are said to be brought by the baby Jesus. During Communist rule
in Croatia, when religious holidays were not officially acknowledged,
parents were giving on New Year's Day by a figure known as Father Frost,
although most families privately celebrated the traditional Christmas
holidays.
According to Croatian tradition, on the eve of St. Nicholas Day children
polish a pair of boots and place them on a window still for Saint Nicholas
to fill; however, what they filled with depends on how well behaved the
child has been. Children are reminded that instead of candy fruit and
gifts, their boots could be filled with switches, which may be put to use!
The Christmas festivities officially end on the Epiphany when priests visit
their parishioners to bless their homes. Families take down Christmas trees
and decorations on that day as well.
* * * * * *
Here are recipes for two dishes traditionally served in Croatian homes at
Christmas time.
Stuffed Cabbage
2 heads pickled cabbage 2 tsp.paprika
1 lb.ground beef 1 onion, chopped
1 lb. smoked ham, chopped 1 egg
1/4 c. smoked bacon, chopped 2 tbsp. oil
2 tbsp, flour 1 lb. smoked ham hocks or pork ribs
1 c. uncooked rice salt and pepper to taste
Fry bacon in its own fat. Add onion and saute five minutes. Remove from
heat and drain excess fat. Allow to cool slightly, combine with ground
beef, chopped ham, rice, egg, 1 teaspoon paprika, salt and pepper, remove
large outer leaves of the cabbage, place filling in each leaf and roll up
from center to outer edge. Tuck sides into center to hold roll together.
Cut remaining cabbage into strips. Add another half pound of saurekraut, if
desired. Place half the saurekraut in the bottom of a large pot. Arrange
cabbage rolls over saurekraut. Add smoked ribs or ham hocks. Cover with
remaining saurekraut. Heat oil and brown flour in it. Add a teaspoon
paprika and water to make a thick roux. Cook for 5 minutes. Pour roux over
cabbage rolls. Add water to cover cabbage and simmer over low heat for 1/2
to 2 hours until rice is fully cooked. Do not stir cabbage rolls while
cooking. Instead, shake pot occasionally to prevent sticking. Transfer to
warm serving dish.
Dalmatian Pot Roast
5 lbs. beef -top round 10 oz. fresh celery
10 oz. smoked bacon 8 prunes
20 oz. onion 3 quarts dry red wine
8 oz. carrots 10 oz. olive oil
4 coves garlic bay leaf, rosemary, thyme
10 oz. peeled tomato salt and pepper to taste
Pre-preparation:
Wash and rain meat. Cut bacon into match like sticks. Chop onion and
garlic. Cut vegetables into small strips. Pierce beef with sharp knife and
place garlic into and around meat. Place beef into large pan, cover with
wine. Add chopped onion, thyme, bay leaf, rosemary, pepper, and cubed
celery to meat. Cover pan and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Preparation:
Heat oil and place beef (only) into pan with oil. Brown meat briskly and
remove from pan. Add contents from marinade into oil and fry briskly. Add
browned meat, peeled tomatoes, prunes, and remaining items into pan. Mix
and cook for 2-3 hours from a higher to lower temperature during cooking
time. Remove meat and slice. Strain juice from pan and use as sauce.
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