The World & I
December 1998
A CROATIAN CHRISTMAS
Text by NINA RADMAN
Photos by JOYCE FORRISTAL
Whether Observed In The Mother Country, Canada, Or The United States, The
Holiday Traditions Of The Recently Independent Nation Of Croatia Draw
Family And Friends Together With Delicious Food And Festivities.
When young, I was often embarrassed by my father's exuberance and open
hospitality at Christmas. A native of Croatia who moved to the New World to
start a new life, he urged the constant flow of guests to our home to eat
and drink, explaining the rich traditions behind our food and the "proper"
way to prepare the festive meals.
For him, "proper" meant that the recipes were traditional ones, passed down
from generation to generation, and that great care was taken in the
kitchen. He constantly reminded us how lucky we were to be eating a vast
array of homemade delicacies instead of the predictable turkey dinner.
Both the preparation and the sharing of the food bring Croatian families
together to embrace and celebrate their rich culture. As a child, I looked
forward to helping my mother, grandmother, and aunts make kolaci, an
assortment of ethnic pastries and cookies. Baking these treats was even
more exciting than opening presents! Besides we started preparing them
weeks before Christmas, my brothers and I often conspired to sneak into the
cellar to find where my mother had hidden the tins brimming with tempting
goodies.
The most interesting part of these activities was listening to my
grandmother. She shared family recipes with me and carefully explained the
manner in which kolaci were prepared in earlier times. Her stories of how
they baked the cookies over wood burning stoves in the old country were
entrancing. I was born and raised in Canada, so these were some of my first
impressions of my parents' home country.
A Mosaic Of Traditions
Croatians adopted Christianity in the ninth century. Although it has been a
predominately Catholic nation ever since, customs differ from region to
region. It is common for those in the northern area of Croatia, known as
Slavonia, to prepare a Christmas meal substantially different from that
enjoyed by people of the coastal region of Dalmatia. Influenced by its
neighbors, Croatia has adopted a mosaic of traditions throughout the years,
mainly rom the Turks, Hungarians, Italians, and Austrians. The practice has
both enriched our culture and allowed us to appreciate the customs of
others. One of the most important aspects of Croatian culture is that it
was kept alive and strong despite the constant influence from outside
peoples.
Because of Catholicism, meat is not eaten on Christmas Eve. Instead,
various seafood dishes are prepared, such as the Dalmatian specialty
bakalar, a stew made of dried cod. Seafood salads, fried smelts, and
risotto, which is made from rice and squid in Croatia, are commonly served.
The table also boasts assorted fruits, nuts, wine, and brandy. Badnji kruh,
or Christmas Eve bread, made with honey and an assortment of dried nuts and
fruits, acts as a centerpiece and adorns the table until it is shared by
the family on Epiphany, January 6.
On Christmas Day, a wider variety of food is shared with family and
friends. Traditionally, neighbors gather to roast a pig or lamb on a spit
and then divide the abundance of meat between their families. In Dalmatia
and Istria, Croatia's two coastal regions, fish is usually eaten on
Christmas Day, while the people of the interior regions, such as Lika and
Slavonia, traditionally prefer meat. Sarma, or stuffed cabbage rolls, are
often cooked in a broth with dried sausages or smoked bacon, and staples
such as potatoes, rice, and vegetables are served with salads of mixed
greens and bean or potato salad.
As to desserts, Croats boast that they have perfected the art of making
cookies, rolls, pastries, and torts, which are served with Turkish coffee
and liqueurs. After dinner, platters of proscuitto, homemade cheeses, and
fruit may be served with dessert. Croats also take pride in their wines and
sljivovica (plum brandy), which is consumed throughout the day.
Christmas In Washington
Having spent every Christmas in Canada, I was thrilled to be invited to
attend the first Christmas party given by Croatia's U.S. Embassy since the
country became independent in 1991.
In the true spirit of the Croatian Christmas, Ambassador Miomir Zuzul
invited more than 350 guests to celebrate in Washington. Well over six feet
tall and dressed in a traditional Dalmatian suit, the ambassador epitomized
Croatian manhood. After warmly greeting his guests, many of them dressed in
festive reds and greens, he encouraged them to try the customary food and
drink.
Having attended numerous Croatian parties, banquets, and celebrations, I
was eager to learn how the embassy would present a most important aspect of
a Croatian Christmas: food. I was impressed to find a variety of dishes
from both traditional Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals presented in a
very appealing manner.
I was amazed to learn that this massive feast was prepared by just one man,
chef Ivo Svircic, or Barbe Ivo, as he is known at the embassy. (Barbe means
uncle or mister in the Dalmatian dialect.) Adorned with culinary medals,
Ivo circulated among the guests, receiving odes of greatly deserved praise.
Months later, while working on this article, I saw his simple kitchen where
Ivo prepared this meal. Outfitted with a six-burner stove, two ovens, and a
countertop, it was not much larger than ones found in most homes. Only then
did I realize that Ivo is truly master of his domain.
The embassy was decorated with a tall Christmas tree beautifully adorned
with red, white and blue ribbon, symbolizing the colors of the Croatian
flag, and other traditional ornaments, such as Licitar hearts. Originating
in Sestine, near Zagreb, Licitar hearts are primarily decorative, although
they are edible. Always red but sometimes varied in shape, the ornaments
are made of cookie dough and decorated with colorful designs and little
mirrors. Some are even adorned with traditional Christmas sayings.
The wine flowed freely, and everyone seemed to enjoy trying the Croatian
delicacies. A great success, the party introduced guests to the rich
culture of this new country full of old traditions. Now I long to celebrate
my first Christmas in Croatia.
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Nina Radman is a first-generation Canadian-Croatian who has hopes of moving
back to her parents' native land for a few years.
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Dalmatian Pot Roast
Pot roast is common Christmas fare for the inhabitants of the coastal
Adriatic region called Dalmatia. It is often served with mixed
vegetables such as potatoes and carrots.
5 lbs. beef (top round) 3/4 cup thinly sliced carrots
4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 bay leaves
3 quarts red wine 1 1/2 cups cubed celery
1 1/2 cups thinly sliced smoked bacon 1 1/2 cups peeled whole tomatoes 2
1/2 cups chopped onion 8 prunes
1 tsp. dried rosemary 2 tsp. mustard
1 tsp. dried thyme 1 1/2 cups olive oil
1 cup chopped parsley salt and pepper to taste
Wash and drain beef. Place beef in a 4-quart pot and cover with wine.
Pierce it with a sharp knife and place garlic in the holes and around meat.
Add bacon, onion, rosemary, thyme, parsley, carrots, bay leaf, pepper, and
celery. Cover pot and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Remove beef from marinade, reserving wine and vegetables. Heat oil and
brown beef briskly, then remove from pan. Add contents from marinade to oil
and fry briskly. Add reserved wine, browned beef, tomatoes, prunes,
mustard, salt, and pepper. Stir and cook for 2-3 hours, first on medium and
then reduced to simmer, partially covered. Remove beef and slice. Strain
juice from pan and use as sauce.
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Badnji Kruh (Christmas Eve Bread)
Christmas Eve bread is enjoyed in all regions of Croatia. It symbolizes the
spirit of sharing between family and friends because in many families it is
customary that everyone enjoys some while sitting around the table
together.
1 Tbsp. honey
1/2 cup warm water
1 pkg. yeast
1 1/4 cups whole wheat flour
2 cups white flour
1 1/4 cups white wine
1/2 cup whole hazelnuts
1/2 cup whole blanched almonds
1/2 cup raisins
1 3/4 cups chopped dried figs
2 Tbsp. honey, to glaze
Stir 2 Tbsp. honey into the warm water. Add yeast and mix well. Allow to
rise until foamy, approximately 20 minutes. Work a firm dough from flour,
yeast, and wine. Kneed until smooth. Add hazelnuts, almonds, raisins, and
figs. Allow to rise in a warm, draft free place for one hour until doubled
in bulk. Punch down and place in greased and floured 11 x 16 inch bread
pan. Allow to rise again for another half hour.
Bake in preheated oven at 375F until golden brown. Spread honey over warm
bread as a glaze and serve warm. The bread can be refrigerated overnight to
bake for Christmas Eve breakfast. In this case, let it warm to room
temperature after removing from the refrigerator, then allow it to rise a
second time. In the morning, you will have a fresh, warm bread.
Breskve (Mock Peaches)
For the first-timer, making these cookies may prove a challenge. But with
it mix of chocolate, coffee, and rum, this beautifully colorful pastry is
sure to be a crowd pleaser.
6 1/2 cups flour
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. baking powder
4 eggs
2 cups sugar
2 tsp. vanilla
1 cup oil
1 cup milk
1/2 cup rum
1 cup granulated sugar
Filling:
centers of baked cookies
3 cups finely baked ground walnuts
1/3 cup cocoa
6 Tbsp. sugar
1/2 cup rum
1/4 cup very strong coffee
granulated sugar to coat
yellow and red food dye
rum
Preheat oven to 350F. Sift flour with salt and baking powder. Beat eggs and
sugar until very light and fluffy. Add vanilla and oil and half the flour
and beat well. Add remaining flour alternately with milk, beating well
after each addition. You will have a soft but firm dough.
Make small balls with floured hands, or dip a melon baller in flour and
make small balls with melon baller. Bake for approximately 12 minutes,
until the bottom is golden but the tops are still white. Allow cookies to
cool.
Hollow out centers of baked and cooled balls; crumble and mix well with
ground walnuts, cocoa, sugar, rum, and coffee. Stuff hollowed balls with
filling. Join cookie halves to make balls. Place sugar in two small bowls.
Add yellow food coloring to one and red food coloring to the other. Mix
well. Dip balls in rum, then roll in the colored sugars to give them the
color of peaches.
Makovnjaca (Poppy Seed Roll)
Poppy seed roll is a common Croatian desert, which is served at festive
gatherings year-round. The roll freezes well and is often kept for
unexpected visitors. Perfect served with coffee or tea.
Yeast:
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. flour
1 1/2 cups warm milk
1 pkg. yeast
Pastry:
1 3/4 cups pastry flour
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1 cup milk
pinch of salt
1 Tbsp. smetana (plum brandy)
2 Tbsp. oil
1/2 cup rum
zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp. sugar
pinch of salt
Filling:
1 1/2 cups poppy seeds
1 cup milk
3/4 cup sugar
5 tsp. raisins
2 Tbsp. rum
zest of 1/2 lemon
cinnamon
1 egg (for glazing)
Preparing the yeast: Put the sugar, 1 Tbsp. flour, and milk (110-115F) in
medium bowl; sprinkle over yeast. Cover the bowl and allow the yeast to
prove.
Advance preparation for the filling: Finely grind poppy seeds and scald
them with boiling milk. Clean and wash raisins and soak in rum.
For the pastry: Sift flour and set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk egg,
egg yolks, and milk together. Pour sifted flour into a warmed bowl, make a
depression in center and add pinch of salt, the egg/milk mixture, smetana,
oil, rum, and lemon zest, working it all together with fingers. Finally,
add yeast mixture, mix well, and continue to beat with wooden spoon until
dough no longer sticks to spoon or bowl. Remove dough and knead slightly,
sprinkle bowl with flour, and replace dough. Cover with clean cloth and
leave to rise until double.
Preparing the Filling: Combine the cooled poppy seed/milk mixture with
other filling ingredients.
Making the rolls: Tip the doubled dough onto pastry cloth and divide in
half. Roll each half into a rectangular shape and spread the filling across
tow thirds the width of the dough. Roll it up like a Swiss roll. Place
rolls on a buttered or parchment lined cookie sheet, cover, and allow to
rise once more. When doubled, brush with a beaten egg. Bake for 40-50
minutes in oven preheated to 200F.
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