http://www.hic.hr/english/news/yourletters.htm
The Croatian Information Centre invites you to send in your letters. Contributions will be considered for this section of Press Cut. Note that letters do not necessarily reflect the standpoint of the Croatian Information Centre but would make interesting reading nonetheless. E-mail your contributions to: hicnews@hic.hr
April 10, 2001
A letter from the
Diaspora
By Alan Nemaric
Nemaric@sympatico.ca
VIŠNJA MARASKA
For almost 200 years the essence of North and Middle Dalmatia, particularly Zadar has been gracing the tables of the world's royalty, grand hotels and finest restaurants. What Tokay Wine is to Hungary, what Champagne is to France, Maraschino is to Zadar, Dalmatia and Croatia.
Maraschino Liqueur is a product of cherries that are pounded, the pits are crushed, honey is added, and the mixture is left to ferment before being distilled. Croatians have produced it since the medieval times. Prior to bottling, the mixture is sweetened with sugar, resulting in a clear liqueur that is 60 to 78% proof. Its distinctive flavor comes from the type of cherry used, the Marasca type, which flourished specifically in North and Middle Dalmatia
Contrary to popular belief, the Marasca cherry is not indigenous to Europe, mysteriously, the Prunus Cerasus Marasca cherry came to Croatia from Central Asia long before anyone can document. There have always been whispers and rumors that Croatian explorers from Dubrovnik and Zadar may have explored the Orient and brought the seeds of this magnificent fruit back with them when they returned to their Adriatic homes.
The Marasca cherry has a taste that is not typical amongst the Western European and North American cherry. The Adriatic fruit is much more bitter and less juicy than its counterparts. Making it a perfect fruit for transformation into a fine liqueur. Zadar's peasants discovered the cherry's alcoholic potential and in the early 16th Century the Monks of the Dominican Monastery mastered the production of the liqueur and at the same time documented the sensitive recipe giving it the name of "Rosolj" (from the Latin " Ros Solis" - "The Sun Rose"). The recipe is generally used for its production today. It would be almost a century later that the Zadar Italians would give it the name we are most familiar with today: "Maraschino".
In the early 1800's, Dalmatia was in political transition, moving from Venetian control to Austrian control. In 1817, a Genoese citizen, Girolamo Luxardo (and his family), was sent to Zara as consular representative of the kingdom of Sardinia. His wife, Maria Canevari quickly discovered Zadar's wonderful liqueur and eventually began to fabricate her own version from home. Serious connoisseurs noticed the liqueur she produced. Her profit minded husband Girolamo as a result founded a distillery in 1821 to produce Maraschino (many of us now know it as Maraska d.d.). It was the world's primary source of Maraschino.
Since 1821, the Luxardo family ran the Luxardo distillery as a family owned business and passed the reigns from generation to generation until 1943-1944. During WWII, the allied forces bombed the town of Zadar mercilessly; the Luxardo distillery was nearly levelled. Tito's Partisans then singled out many remaining Italians whom they considered to be Fascist sympathizers. Included were Pietro Luxardo, Nicolo II and his wife (who headed the business), they were drowned by Tito's forces in the Adriatic. The only 4th generation sibling to survive was Giorgio Luxardo. He fled Croatia and built a distillery in Torreglia, Italy that bears the Luxardo name, Croatia's primary competition in the Maraschino business. Luxardo's Maraschino product appears nearly identical to that of "Maraska d.d.", the flask shapes and esthetics are identical. As well, Luxardo still bears the "Zara " name on all their labels.
After WWII, the Luxardo distillery was rebuilt and renamed to "Maraska". Once again, the company specialized in Maraschino production. The advantage they had over the new Luxardo Company was that they continued to use Marasca cherries that grew from centuries old trees in a climate that was perfect for its production. Amongst true connoisseurs, "Maraska d.d." brand Maraschino is without a doubt, the best in the world. Competing on the shelves of the world's liqueur stores side by side with its cousin, the Luxardo brand Maraschino.
What champagne is to France, Maraschino must be to Croatia. Marasca cherries, due to their specific climate requirements can only truly be grown in parts of Croatia and Italy. Today, you can find "Maraschino" liqueur all over the world, but many are forgeries. Distillers in the US Yakima Valley and other parts of the Northwest, for example, are distilling with Royal Ann cherries and labelling them as Maraschino. As well, these new cherries are being candied and bottled and being passed off as "Maraschino Cherries", the type used for ice cream and cake decorations. This, to satisfy the sweeter American palette and present a cheaper alternative to the American consumer under an established and historic name. Maraschino has its roots buried deep into the Dalmatian heartland, it took centuries to perfect. There must be a high standard associated with this prestigious name. If it can't be controlled, then its name should only be limited to those using only the Marasca cherry in its creation.
The next time you're offered a sample of Maraschino, make sure it's genuine, make sure it's "Maraska" brand!